Fader-start interface problem

English Hardware
1

Hi.

Having bought the faderstart interface, which appears as a gamepad in mAirList, we have it plugged into the D&R Airmate.

Will the usual expected configuration, e.g. Press- Player 1-1 Start, Release- Player 1-1 Stop, it seems to work very strangly when faderstarting from the Airmate.

What happens, is that when i press the start button on the airmate, witht eh configuration set up as explained above, the player starts, then stops immediately under a second. I even plugged in a real joystick to test if it was the interface that was faulty, but the same thing happens. What configuration is needed in mAirList? It is as if what is happening, is that the button needs to stay pressed to keep it playing, but this doesn’t happen with the interface and the desk.

What we want to happen is when pressing ‘start’ on the desk, the player will start and keep playing until the fader is brought down on the desk into its latch, which should act as the release. For your information, we are using an MAudio Delta 44 soundcard as our outputs too, which would probbably make no difference anyway.

The only way at the moment we can get something similar to it working properly as it should, is to have on press, have the player Start/Stop. This way, we then bring the fader down, and once down, flick it back up and down again to stop the item, ready for the next to be laoded before brining the fader back up again.

Sorry for the very confusing way i’ve explained it.

I’d be very appreciative of any help.

Thanks, Ryan.

2

I suspect the Airmate is configured to “momentary” rather than “latching” remote-starts. What this means is that the start connections only latch for about half a second (enough for a CD/MD/game-port) to register a press. Latching starts were generally used for some turntables or where you wanted to lock-out the front panel of the CD/MD during play. The larger D+R desks (I’ve serviced the Aircom and Airmix desks) are configurable - hopefully the smaller+cheaper Airmate has internal jumpers to select the remote-start type…

You can double-check the operation of the remote-starts by opening “Gaming Options” in Control Panel, select Properties and look at the red button icons whilst testing the mixer buttons.

EDIT: According to the manual on the D+R site - it says that your dealer can modify the start output from latching to momentary (also known as “pulse”)… Do you have a printed manual for the mixer ? It may be more in-depth than the online version.

3

Thanks for the swift reply Charlie. I suspected that it would be something similar to what you said.

And as we ordered via Preco, no manual was included, but i preusme it is the same as the online version.

I think there are only these jumpers-

The following jumper settings can be selected:

  1. R.I.A.A. correction amp on Jumper J 12 and J 13.

  2. Low cut filter on Mic input only through Jumper J 3.

  3. Aux send pre or post selectable via Jumper J6 (post is default).

  4. Start jack de-activating by Jumper J 11 (1-2).

  5. Monitor Muting active by On switch via Jumper J 11 (3-4) (for broadcast).

Would you say that this is servicable ourselves by taking off the front panel?

And the red buttons are only momentary flashing when pressed, therefore revealing this problem.

4

In my experience with D+R, the PCBs are fairly simple and often the jumpers are labelled with their purpose. Somebody with some basic electronic knowledge should be able to find the jumper and set it accordingly. The remote-starts will be opto-coupled - this is a device that physically isolates the start switch from the actual remote-start connector. Generally, an opto-coupler is a 6pin (3 each side) device that looks like a little black bug. As a hint - there will be plenty of OpAmp ICs on the circuit boards, these will be 8pin (4 each side) devices.

That said - removing the cover should only be attempted by qualified service personnel and naturally, poking about inside may only lead to more problems :wink:

My advice is given on the basis that, unlike Torben, I am not a doctor 8)

5

Ooooo! Very technical for me haha!

I’ll have to call in the electronics dept.

On that note, i’m not sending it back to Preco and causing absolute chaos!

I’ll see what reply i get from D&R and what they recommend.

6

Hi Ryan, if the desk is still under warranty do not open to gain access to the inside without written permission from Preco. Not unless you wish to void the warranty.

Kind Regards tony

7

Ah yes…would Preco still allow it though even though it would void the warranty, or is having permission ok?

8

You would need to speak to them directly about this.

Kind Regards tony

9

Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful, Ryan. The Airmate is one of the few D+R products that I’ve not played with - There was one at Phoenix FM but it wasn’t wired-up so I never got to use it. They don’t appear to be too bad, especially as every input can be assigned as a Mic should you need it (very handy for converting it from an on-air desk to a production one). My only gripe is that I feel it’s a little pricey at just over £1000 especially when the stereo inputs are domestic phono sockets!

As Tony says, best see what Preco say with regards to tweaking the remotes as I don’t have first-hand knowledge of how easy they’d be to tweak.

10

No worries. You have heleped greatly and enlightened me further on the situation!

It’s a pretty nice desk the way it’s simple to use…great for production and a nice simple on air desk too! I’m not as fussy on my input types though ha ha, as long as some audio comes through i’m pleased :wink:

So i’ll await a reply from Preco tomorrow morning (40 mins away :-o, i should get some sleep!) and post back on what has been said.

Thanks for the help. Ryan.

11

Hi.

Just an update really. Preco replied saying that it would be fine and dandy to go inside the mixer if it is something specified that can be done in the D&R Manual(which it is), which is fantastic. So warranty side, it’s fine, but at the moment i am waiting on a reply from D&R themselves to enlighten me with some more information regarding changing the faderstart functioning!

Thanks, Ryan.

12

Groovy - D&R should be able to help, my experience with Dutch equipment has always been favourable - Eela are the other brand that I’ve had the pleasure of prodding about with :wink: The jumpers will be the same sort you see on hard-drives when you select them as Master/Slave - just a little plastic sleeve with a metal inside and 3 prongs, you’ll either be shorting pins 1+2 or 2+3… Generally :slight_smile:

13

Nice one. Hopefully D&R can provide in-depth detail including diagrams ;). Makes life easier!

I am in anticipation now waiting on a reply! Haha

Thanks Charlie, you’re great help, Ryan.

14

From the very basic manual, its jumper 11 across pins 1+2 to de-activate start jack. Poorly described so I would wait for more advice from Preco.

Kind regards tony

15

Yes. That seems to be said in the manual, but it’s not de-activating which i want, but more of ‘changing’ the function/working of the faderstart. Unless that is it? It is very vague the manual, which annoys me :-\

Thanks, Ryan.

16

Hi Ryan, give it a try. It will either turn fader start off or make the switch continous. If its the latter, the problem should be solved.

Kind regards tony

17

I certainly will give it a go (if i can figure out how haha! I have no experience with electronics really :-[ )

Also…probably one for Charlie…where can i access the internal ‘area’ of the D&R mixers…is it the top panel where all the faders are etc and lift it off? or is it back panel access?

Thanks, Ryan.

18

Its certainly not very modular or user (techie) friendly, have to see one closeup.

With regard to the jumper settings, I have contacted Duco at D&R direct who promises to look at the drawings and advise tomorrow.

Kind regards Tony

19

Indeed. Very ‘bog-standard’ and not really intended to be modified, thus why they say that it should be done by the dealer i suppose!

And also, i contacted D&R yesterday evening, but no reply as of yet :o

Much apprecaied for your help involving this Tony. It is very…sorry, extremely helpful! :slight_smile:

Thanks. Ryan.

20

Generally, the circuit boards will be vertical with the rotary pots actually soldered direct to the boards (and screwed to the chassis under the actual knob). I’ve not seen inside an Airmate before so don’t know if each channel has it’s own PCB or whether it’s one big one. Most likely the underneath of the chassis is where you start poking about :slight_smile: